We extend a warm welcome to all our new subscribers and look forward to receiving your comments and ideas.

We really do have some fantastic events planned and this month we feature an excellent DVD by one of the worlds leading authorities on canine behaviour, Dr. Ian Dunbar. Details of this follow below.  We have successfully managed to organize two of the leading dog experts in the world to visit us here in South Africa towards the end of next year, and you will enjoy some outstanding talks and seminars.  We are in the process of putting together the itinerary, so for the time being you will be kept in suspense – but we promise you the wait will be worth it! Once again our members will enjoy reduced prices for the seminars and entry to our excellent competitions in the Professional Newsletter, so if you haven’t yet applied for membership - do it now!

Once again our gratitude to the professionals who have been so helpful in submitting excellent articles, this newsletter wouldn’t be possible without you and we do appreciate the extra work this entails.

We would like to express our thanks for your support and look forward to receiving your comments and ideas for articles.  Scotty Valadao (Editor)

 

CONTENTS

 

1.Breed Personality Information (Canine)

This issue – The Rhodesian Ridgeback by Francie van Rensburg

2. Introducing a new puppy into a multi-dog household by Louise Thompson

3. Canine Parvovirus Infection by Dr.’s Moore, Romberg & Mac William

4. Having a litter for the children….. by Karen Gray-Kilfoil & Dr. Yvonne Robson

5. DVD Screening – Dog Aggression by Dr. Ian Dunbar

6. ABC of SA Booklet List – a ‘must have’ of helpful behaviour information

7. What the Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa is all about

8. About membership

 

 

1. The Rhodesian Ridgeback – Breed Profile –by Francie van Rensburg

History: Although South African in origin, and being South Africa’s National dog, the name Rhodesian Ridgeback’s is an acknowledgement to those early Rhodesians who recognised the value of the dog, at that stage called “Lion Dog” or “Lion Hound”, and who developed a breed standard and persuaded KUSA to register it as a breed in 1924, thus ensuring its survival for us.

Its forebears can be traced to beginning of the Cape Colony of Southern Africa, and the pioneers’ expansion northwards. They are the result of breeding between the early pioneers’ dogs and the semi-domesticated, ridged, Hottentot hunting dogs, aided by a process of natural selection over a period of over 2 centuries before being recognised and registered as a breed.  Hunting mainly in groups of two or three, the original function of the Rhodesian Ridgeback, or Lion Dog, was to track game, especially lion, and with great agility, keep it at bay until the arrival of a hunter. (This characteristic is still evident today in the way they “attack” – Ridgebacks will not hold on when biting the way other dogs do in attack training, but will dart in and out for continuous quick bites, as holding on to their prey in the early days could be fatal.) Strong, muscular and active, they are capable of great endurance with a fair amount of speed. The breed is unique in that it has a ridge of hair running down the centre of the back.

Personality: A Rhodesian Ridgeback is a loyal family pet, courageous and a good guard. The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a highly intelligent dog with the most beautiful and lovable facial expressions.  They are known to be good problem solvers who will quickly figure out what to do to get what it wants, and are known to open doors with great skill.  The Rhodesian Ridgeback is not noisy by nature and they will only bark when there is something that needs to be investigated.  Aloof with strangers, he will not attack unless provoked in defence of his own. If you welcome a stranger into your home, they will willingly accept your estimation and respond accordingly.  The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a pack dog and he and his loving human family will become a pack.  The pack instinct is so strong that they will do anything to protect it if they sense and observe a situation as being potentially threatening, whether it is to chase off the cattle or any other animals coming too close to you, or warding off somebody, whether familiar or unfamiliar to them.  They make great family pets, and are reliable companions to children of all ages. This adaptable breed, happy to be a one-man dog or member of the family, loves its creature comforts, and is quick to find the best spot in the house – be it your bed, settee or just the floor beside you – they can be the biggest lap dogs known to man.

Care & Needs: The Rhodesian Ridgeback is not an excessive hair shedder, and has a short dense, sleek coat which is easy to maintain with an occasional brush or wipe with a damp towel.  The Rhodesian Ridgeback is one of a few dogs that display a cat like behaviour in the sense that it washes itself by licking itself clean, and is as such a very clean dog.  It is a very private dog as far as its daily toilet routine is concerned, and will most often select a spot where it will do its business in private. Because of their clean nature a puppy being brought up lovingly is very easy to house train, as they prefer not to dirty their living quarters. Once you have your happy, healthy puppy at home, ensure it gets an adequate diet that will meet its demand.  Care must however be taken not to feed them to much, as they will devour any food and can become overweight, which is not acceptable as it can impair its development. (Puppy food for large breeds is a must. It initially grows very rapidly until 1 year when growth slows down, but will continue to grow, until the age of almost 2 years., A young puppy should not be subjected to too much exercise at too early an age, and should only really start to run long distances from 8 months onwards. An adult Ridgeback however needs exercise to maintain both its mental health and its athletic, muscular build, and if not, it is likely to become frustrated and destructive.  In contrast with the terrier types, they are not active all day, but thoroughly enjoy their “happy hour” of fun and exercise with the family. Obedience training and puppy socializing will ensure you have a dog that is a pleasure to live with and take everywhere. 

Being a member of the hound group, the Rhodesian Ridgeback has an intelligent and independent spirit. With a life expectancy of 12 years a Rhodesian Ridgeback will be your very loyal friend, (but not your slave), very single minded and sometimes stubborn, always making your life richer and more fun.

 

2.Introducting a new puppy into a multi-dog household – Part One by Louise Thompson (Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ™)

General

Choosing a new puppy is difficult enough, without having to take into account the social hierarchy and genetic compatibilities of the existing dogs in the home.  There are numerous questions that need to be asked before you take on the lifetime responsibility of owning another dog.  Before bringing a new puppy into a multi-dog household, you should take into account the genetics of the breed that you wish to purchase, and the genetics, sex, age and compatibility of the existing household pack.  If you are already having aggression problems with your existing pack, it would spell disaster to introduce another animal into the pecking order.  There have been many cases reported of adult dogs mauling and killing young puppies.  You also need to take into account the age and sex of your existing dog/s. Elderly dogs can be pestered into reacting to young puppies, who constantly demand to be entertained.  If an elderly dog reacts negatively the entire pack can join in, once again ending in tragedy.

If your existing dog’s basic behavioural needs are not currently being adequately met, it can also go horribly wrong.  For example, if your existing dog/s are not exercised off the property regularly, or given enough (appropriate) mental stimulation, or have never been trained or socialised, they will have exceptionally low tolerance levels, and few life skills to fall back on if anything goes wrong (life skills are learnt by experience.)  Bear in mind also, that if you are having any other behavioural problems with your existing dogs, such as destructive behaviour, excess barking, or noise phobia’s, the young pup, when “mentored” by the existing dogs, could very well end up exhibiting the same problems.  Puppies learn from example, and if they have poor role-models, you could very well end up with a group of dogs, all exhibiting the same behaviour negative behaviour traits!

The relationship between the humans and the existing dogs also needs to be taken into account.  For example, if the existing dogs are overindulged, over-privileged brats, they might not take well, to a new puppy “underdog”, who will most likely, take away much valuable attention from their owners.

Some dogs are never able to get on with other dogs, no matter what you do, or how hard you try.  These individuals are often found in the “fighting” group of dog breeds.  Breeds like the Bullterrier, and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, were genetically engineered by man, for the cruel sport of dog fighting, whilst they are often wonderful with humans, this love of people does not extend itself to other dogs, or any small mammals.  I know of many Staffordshire Terriers who have to spend their lives in “one dog households” because of their intolerance of their own kind.  This does not seem to present a problem as long as their behavioural and emotional needs are met. 

Which breeds are generally compatible?

Gundogs are probably well known as being one of the best breeds to have as a household companion animal.  They are also pretty laid back in the aggression stakes, and usually tolerant and even natured.  All of which bodes well for introducing a new pup.  Breeds in this group include Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Pointers, and Setters.  With Gundogs, often you can even get away with mixing them with a passive natured Terrier and of course one of the Herding Breeds.  Herding breeds also tend to get along well together with other herding breeds.  So often you can be very successful to mix breeds like the German Shepherd Dog and Border Collies for example.  This is also due to the genetics, of being primarily developed to work together, for man.  Herding breeds and Gundogs also often mix well together.

Which breeds are often incompatible?

Terriers put with other Terriers are usually a no go, as are mixing Terriers and Guarding breeds.  That is a recipe for disaster! Extreme care should be taken when considering introducing any animal into a group or even an individual dog within one of the “Fighting” breeds as they have an extremely high “Prey” drive (hunting instinct) and putting a helpless pup in that position could end in tragedy! Little snappy dogs often will not accept pups that are going to grow up to be big pushy dogs.  Dogs bred mainly for companions also generally do not mix well with the Guarding breeds.

It is worthwhile to find out what the original purpose of your breed was.  It will give you an idea of how to meet his needs, both behavioural and physical i.e. exercise and mental stimulation and help you to decide whether you should bring in another pup into the group.  If you are unsure of the compatibility of your existing pack and a prospective puppy, contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant for advice and guidance.

(Part Two will include helpful tips on how to introduce the pup into the home and will be featured in our October newsletter)

 

3. CANINE PARVOVIRUS INFECTION BY Dr.’s Moore, Romberg & Mac William

PREVENT PARVO BY INNOCULATING YOUR PUPPY               

Canine Parvovirus (CPV) infection appeared suddenly in the United States of America in August 1978 and within one year had become widespread throughout the world. The devastating effects and worldwide spread of CPV infection have been the subject of grave concern for pet owners, dog breeders and Veterinarians alike and have motivated an intensive research effort to investigate all aspects of the disease.

The disease is caused by one of the smallest known viruses which is closely related to the virus responsible for infectious feline panleukopaenia (‘cat flu’ or ‘cat distemper’).

The sign of CPV infection usually include fever, depression, and loss of appetite that is followed by extremely profuse diarrhoea, often accompanied by vomiting. The stool is liquid, may contain blood and has a foul odour. Because the white blood cell count may be lower than normal, the patient’s resistance is reduced, which exposes it to other infections.

Another form of CPV infection may occur in puppies younger than twelve weeks of age. This form of the disease causes an inflammation of the heart muscle (myocarditis) and usually results in sudden death. The affected puppies may breathe with difficulty, cry intermittently and may develop diarrhoea.

Some dogs show no outward signs of the disease or may develop very mild symptoms. All infected dogs shed a great deal of virus in their stools which spreads the disease to susceptible dogs.

When puppies begin to nurse they may receive temporary protection against a number of diseases, including CPV. If the mother has been successfully vaccinated against CPV or has recovered from an earlier CPV infection, she will have produced protective CPV antibodies. These antibodies are passed to the puppies in their fist milk. Because the amount of maternal antibodies received in this manner may vary widely, the puppies may be protected against CPV infection for a period of several weeks to several months.

The rapid spread of CPV infection and the widespread use of CPV vaccines has ensured that an increasing number of bitches are immune to the disease and thus their puppies receive maternal antibodies against CPV which are protective against the highly fatal myocarditis form of the disease.

However the natural antibodies, which are protective to the puppies, may interfere with the effectiveness of a vaccine. The antibodies neutralize the vaccine virus as though it were the natural CPV virus, thus preventing successful immunization. Therefore, it is important to vaccinate as soon as a puppy becomes susceptible to CPV infection, but late enough to avoid interference by the maternal antibodies.

Since puppies receive varying amounts of maternal antibodies, it is clinically impossible to determine the optimum time for vaccination. Thus for the best protection, several doses of vaccine may be required with one last dose given after the puppy is five months of age.

Treatment of CPV disease requires careful veterinary supervision and may be both time-consuming and costly. Therapy often includes intravenous feeding, medication to control the diarrhoea and vomiting, administration of antibiotics and blood transfusions. Treatment is limited to controlling the symptoms of the disease and does not kill the virus. Since infection ranges from mild to severe even within an affected litter, the success of treatment varies too, despite intensive nursing.

Because CPV is extremely resistant the disease is easily spread and is difficult to control. Thus it is important to isolate infected dogs although even an apparently healthy dog may be spreading the virus because of a mild or inapparent infection. Contaminated areas should be disinfected using one part of hypochloride (bleach) diluted in thirty parts of water or commercial chlorine disinfectants available from your veterinarian.

When CPV first appeared no specific vaccine was available to control the spread of the disease. As a result, CPV infection rapidly assumed epidemic proportions throughout the world. Because the canine parvovirus is very similar to the feline panleukopaenia virus (FPV) veterinarians first relied on FPV (‘cat flu’) vaccines as a form of protection, which was not entirely satisfactory. Subsequently, specific vaccines against CPV have been manufactured which afford superior protection although vaccine failures may occasionally occur.

It is now recommended that your puppy be vaccinated as soon as it becomes susceptible to CPV infection and that at least one booster vaccination be given after twenty weeks of age. Ideally, your puppy should receive the first CPV vaccine between 6 and 10 weeks of age, and a booster vaccine should be administered monthly until 5 months of age. Pregnant bitches should receive a booster killed virus vaccine two weeks prior to whelping to provide maximal protection to puppies. It is advisable only to purchase puppies that have proof of vaccination, and from a mother who has been vaccinated.

Dogs that survive a natural infection of CPV usually develop sufficient immunity to protect themselves against re-infection for several years. However, because there are many causes of diarrhoea and vomiting, even dogs having suspected CPV should be protected by vaccination when in good health.

 

4.Having a litter, for the children…… By Karen Gray-Kilfoil  (Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ©®™) and Humane Educator and Dr Yvonne Robson (Veterinarian at Sunnydale Animal Sterilisation and Health Association - SASHA)

These words always make my heart sink. Why? you ask. What better way to teach our children the facts of life than letting them see the process at first hand in their own home. While the idea of letting your cat or dog have kittens or puppies, so the children can learn, has the right intentions behind it, there are many holes in the plan.

What can go wrong?

• Your children probably won’t see the mating, especially if it’s a cat. If they do, they may get a bad impression of sex, as it often seems painful and can involve aggressive behaviour.

• Seeing a pregnant animal is very like seeing a pregnant human, so there is nothing really new about this for most children.

• Your children probably won’t see the birth, as this usually occurs at night and owners are often not even aware of it. If the birth goes wrong, children could be frightened by emergency procedures or even the death of your pet.

• If you can’t find homes for all the puppies or kittens, they may end up on “death row” with all the other animals at shelters. Is this a lesson you want your children to learn from?

• If you do find a home for every puppy or kitten, they may be homes that would otherwise have taken pets that were in a rescue shelter, thus depriving ‘disadvantaged’ animals homes.

• How will you check out the homes your special pet’s offspring went to? How will you know they are good homes?

What are the alternatives?

• Find a registered breeder (Kennel Union of SA) and ask if you can allow your children to visit the animals before and after the birth, and to see the development of the pups or kittens. Bear in mind that a mother with a litter is very sensitive and children may not be allowed to go too close, make a noise or touch them in the first few days.

• Buy a good book about the facts of life, whether human or animal. There are plenty in your local library.

• Find a good documentary or two about the “birds and the bees”. Again, there may be some at the library.

• Take your children to visit an animal rescue shelter near you. Teach them about being humane and thinking about other animals, not just your own. Teach them about getting pets sterilised so that they do not contribute to the excessive number of puppies and kittens needing good homes.

Is letting your dog or cat have a litter going to benefit the animal, or is it purely for you own selfish purpose? Hundreds of dogs and cats are euthanased each week in South Africa because there are not enough good homes for them all. By allowing your pet to breed and homing the offspring yourselves you may be depriving other, less fortunate, animals of homes – the ones that roam the streets or get stuck in rescue shelters. Parents, have your dogs and cats sterilised BEFORE they have a litter (before 6 months of age, earlier if possible). Your pet's personality will not change if it is sterilised. Don't contribute to the population of unwanted puppies and kittens. 

STERILISE - SAVE LIVES!

5. DVD Screening – Dog Aggression by Dr. Ian Dunbar

 

6. ABC of SA Booklet List:

The ABC booklets are professionally presented and serve as a valuable reference for animal behaviour enthusiasts. Written by practising behaviour consultants – information and tips on dealing with problem behaviours for the pet owner and the animal trainer/behaviourist.

 Booklets are available at R10-00 each, or the entire set of 17 for R150. Postage not included. Please contact Tersia Kock at tersiakock@yahoo.com for orders.

Puppy Behaviour

• Making the right puppy choice

• Puppy basic learning

• Increasing puppy confidence

• Puppies & communication

• Preparing for puppy’s arrival

• Dealing with the rogue puppy (for Puppy School instructors)

Problem Behaviour Modification

• Grooming & bathing

• Pulling washing off the line

• Car travel

• Gate bolting & escaping

• Head collar

• Jumping up at people

• Puppy nipping/biting

• Noise sensitivity

• Barking dogs

General

• Playtime

• Neutering & spaying

 

7.About the Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa.

The Animal Behaviour Consultants™© of Southern Africa aims to promote well-being and harmony between pet and owner.

The ABC aims to continue on-going studies and education in human/animal relationships and to promote and regulate the profession of animal behaviour consultants™©.

History of the ABC

The ABC was founded in February 1994 out of the need to give southern African behaviourists a professional governing body. Membership is open to the public, as well as animal behaviour consultants™©. Owners of companion animals can consult ABC accredited practitioners with confidence, as they adhere to a code of ethics.

Accredited Consultants

All of our accredited members undergo a rigorous application procedure prior to receiving their species specific accreditation. The accreditation criteria are stringent and extensive, thereby ensuring the highest levels of knowledge, professionalism and integrity.  View a complete listing of all accredited consultants on our website at www.animal-behaviour.org.za

Code Of Ethics

• ABC accredited animal behaviour consultants™© resolve at all times to:
• Provide a professional and, confidential service to the owners of companion animals.
• Analyse the behaviour problem thoroughly.
• Treat the animal in liaison with the referring veterinarian.
• Offer appropriate advice and therapy for the animal and owner.
• Treat the animal and owner with understanding and compassion.
• Deal honestly, and fairly, with the public.
• Avoid any action that would discredit the ABC.
• Liaise with all aspects of the animal industry and promote awareness of animal behaviour.
• Take every opportunity to participate in continuing education.
• Keep abreast of all new developments in the science of Ethology.

 

8.Membership

Membership of the ABC is open to all. There are three categories of membership:-

• Normal Membership – R75 per year with a R75 once off joining fee. Please contact Trish Thomas.

• Accredited Membership – On application. Please contact our Secretary, Lotte Griffiths.

• Group Membership – Animal organisations are invited to join the ABC on a group membership basis. Please contact our Secretary, Lotte Griffiths.

Why should I become a member?

If you join as a normal member, you will have access to the bimonthly newsletters aimed at professionals, taking your knowledge of your pet even further, while still, if you wish, receive this newsletter. You will receive invitations to seminars and workshops and qualify for reduced rates at all ABC workshops. In addition you will be eligible to take part in the competitions featuring in the newsletter.