Again, a warm
welcome to all our new members and a massive thank you to those
professionals that have taken the extra time and effort to supply us
with excellent articles, you really are appreciated! Keep on
sending us your ideas and suggestions for articles – that way we
ensure that we give you what you want.
In September we
hosted a DVD evening on aggression by the leading behaviour
authority, Dr. Ian Dunbar and this was thoroughly enjoyed by all. In
October we presented the ‘Geriatric Pet’. The speakers were Dr.
Melvyn Greenberg on behaviour, Dr. Jan Still on Acupuncture, Alison
Glen on Hydrotherapy and Niki Elliott telling us how TTouch could
benefit an ageing pet. We do have a lot of other events in the
pipeline and will send out details in the near future.
With the spate of
e-mails going around lately with horror stories of dogs purchased
from registered breeders that ended up with an assortment of
physical challenges, our Chair, Shannon McKay, who is a breeder
herself, has written an interesting and informative article to
clarify the situation, which appears below. In January we will be
featuring an article with information on what to look for in a Puppy
School, especially for all those lucky people who get a puppy for
Christmas.
Our next general
newsletter will be sent out in January. With this in mind we wish to
wish all our subscribers a wonderful festive season and all the best
for 2008. Warm wishes, Scotty Valadao – Editor
CONTENTS
1. Breed Personality Information (Canine)
This issue –
The Siberian Husky – by Siobhan Kelly
2. Buying a Registered Dog
– by Shannon McKay
3.
Taking Care of your Pet’s Teeth – by Candice Lamb (Kyron
Laboratories (Pty) Ltd)
4.”Cat Think”
– by Carole
O’leary
5. Introducing a new puppy into a multi-dog household – Part 2
by Louise
Thompson
6. What the Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa is all
about
7. About membership
1. The Siberian Husky
– by Siobhan Kelly
HISTORY:
The Chuckchies, a
nomadic people living in northeast of Asia, developed the Siberian
Husky. They lived in an inhospitable region of Siberia where living
conditions were very tough. The dogs helped the nomads with hunting
and pulling their sleds. A medium-sized, gracious, fast sled dog was
developed with enormous endurance, but which always stayed tolerant
and friendly towards each other and people.
Sled dog racing
started to become important in Alaska around 1900. During the 1909
All Alaskan Sweepstakes, a 408-mile race, the first sled dog team
with dogs from Siberia took part driven by a Mr Goosack. The team
won 3rd prize and made a huge impression on the
population of Alaska because the dogs worked with grace, yet they
were so robust. From that moment on Siberian Huskies were imported
to Alaska.
In January 1925,
the Siberian husky played a key role in fighting a diphtheria
epidemic. There was not enough serum available in Nome and it had to
be fetched from far away, which at that time of year was only
possible with the help of sled dogs. In the race against death over
674 miles, which would normally need 25 days was accomplished in
just one week. A team of Siberian Huskies, Eskimos, Indians and
trappers ran in a relay. Leonard Seppala and his dogs ran the
longest and most dangerous stretch. The other teams ran a maximum of
53 miles. Leonard Seppala left Nome to meet the sled relay and had
316 miles behind him when, armed with the serum, he turned around
back towards to Nome despite a vicious snowstorm. His lead dog,
Togo, kept the rest of the team motivated as they had had little
rest and led them back safely. As the last stage of the relay,
Gunnar Kaasson and his team of dogs led by Balto reached Nome on 2nd
February 1925 with the life saving serum.
In memory of all
the sled dogs that took part in this relay race, a statue of Balto
stands in New York’s Central Park. Below it is the inscription
“Endurance” – Fidelity – intelligence”.
Bred both for
endurance and speed, Siberian Huskies are capable of long distance
races. His heritage makes it necessary for him to obtain maximum
exercise. Dry land sledding here in South Africa is on dirt roads
and is a great way of exercising and bonding with your dog. The
sledding season coincides with our winter months from March to
August. The sledding teams gather at least once a week to run the
dogs and there are different categories e.g. 3-wheeler carts, 1 or
2-dog bikejoring (the dog’s are attached to a mountain bike), 1 or 2
dog scooter as well as canicross (dog and human attached and run on
foot). Dry land sledding is not for the faint-hearted and many
inexperienced mushers have taken a fall, resulting in scratches
and/or bruises and various fractures.
The Siberian Husky
is a polar dog and will seldom, if ever, put in much effort at
temperatures above 15 degrees C. This does not mean walking and
jogging with you, but rather work needing physical effort. If it
does have to work at these temperatures, it can quickly suffer from
heatstroke, which can be fatal. The best time to be active with your
Husky is first thing in the morning or late at night.
Medium-sized
working sled dog, quick and light on his feet. Free and graceful in
action, with well furred body, erect ears and a brush tail carried
in a loose curl over his back when alert. The eyes can be any shade
of blue or brown, or parti-colours. Males weigh between 21 – 28kgs
and females weigh 16 – 24kgs. All colours and markings, including
white, allowed. Variety of markings on head is common, including
many striking patterns not found in other
breeds.
PERSONALITY
Siberian Huskies
are not a one-man dog, any human will do and this may be seen as a
lack of loyalty. The Siberian Husky’s characteristic temperament is
friendly and mild, yet lively and alert. An adult dog can display a
certain dignity and reservedness.
If you want to
keep a Husky happy then you need to be active with it. An active dog
needs an active master. A Siberian Husky is a real working dog that
was not born to lie around. They have a strong pack instinct and
will be miserable without company, be it human or canine. If a
Siberian Husky does not get enough attention and exercise, it will
quickly get bored. It will then howl, plough up the lawn, demolish
the inside of your home or try to escape to go hunting. So the Husky
is not a dog for people that are out of the house all day.
A Husky is master
escape artist and there are enough examples of Huskies that manage
to jump a 6-foot wall. There are also countless examples of Huskies
that can climb a wall or fence. The Husky’s in-born urge for
exercise is often the reason it will escape and go off on its own.
If a husky does manage to get free it will run for miles.
Siberian Huskies
cannot be trusted with non-canine pets or birds or livestock of any
sort. The Siberian Husky is a hunter and will normally kill its
prey. Huskies have been known to kill cats that they have happily
lived with for many years, for no obvious reason. This instinct to
hunt cannot be corrected but if a puppy grows up with a cat, they
should be able to live in harmony. It is important to always
supervise Huskies with other non-canine pets. But there is no
guarantee that it will leave other people’s animals in peace.
The Siberian Husky
is absolutely not a watchdog and has no guarding instinct. These
dogs are
friendly towards
anybody, and are certainly able to reward any burglar with a
cheerful greeting. If a Husky comes towards you enthusiastically, it
will greet you by licking you on the face. This is its normal
greeting.
If you want a
perfectly obedient dog then a Husky is not the dog for you. Although
they are highly intelligent they get bored very easily. They are a
real challenge to train and will only came when called if there is
something in it for them. Therefore it’s not a good idea to walk a
Husky off lead. It is essential to attend a positive reinforcement
dog training school from an early age. Training a Husky requires
considerable patience and an understanding of the archetypal
character of Arctic dogs. The husky is an out and out sled dog, and
was never meant to bond too closely with a handler.
Siberian Huskies
tend to get on fine with other well-adjusted canines, but they will
not be bullied and will take up the challenge, if need be. Most
Huskies get along very well with children and are quite tolerant.
Socialized Huskies are good travellers and new sights and sounds do
not upset them.
Siberian Huskies
love gardening and specialize in digging trenches and ripping up
grass beds. So your garden is unlikely to remain neat and tidy with
a Sibe around.
Siberian Huskies
do not bark often but do howl like a wolf, often just for the joy of
it.
CARE & NEEDS
The Siberian Husky
has a double coat that protects it at temperatures down to –60
degrees C. It moults twice a year and then loses its entire
undercoat. An amazing amount of hairs falls out, which can be found
everywhere. During the moulting process, the dog needs to be
brushed regularly. They are clean, little or no doggy smell. Some
people allergic to dogs can tolerate Siberian Husky fur.
Siberian Huskies
are not fussy eaters and they do not require as much food for their
size as many other breeds. Remember that a dog should never play on
a full stomach as this can cause torsion of bloat. This is the
stomach turning over which can be fatal.
Youthful in
outlook, Huskies often reach 14 years of age, sometimes 16. Health
concerns include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, progressive
degeneration of the retina, cataracts, epilepsy, hypothyroidism,
zinc responsive dermatosis, entropion (eyelids curl inwards) and
ectropion (eyelids curl outwards). With regards to hip dysplasia, it
is important that the pup’s hips are not burdened. Therefore you
should not let a young dog run up and down steps too much, and don’t
let it romp too much with other dogs or chase sticks and balls too
wildly. Also give your dog a superior quality food and make sure the
dog doesn’t get too fat. Another factor to take into account is the
floor in your home. Regular slipping on tiled floors can cause
complications that promote HD. Once they have reached the age of
about one year, you can then start training them to pull a sled.
With its
courageous history and beautiful looks the Siberian Husky is
unsuitable for many owners. However, for those who have a sense of
humour, a sense of discipline, and are willing to meet the
challenges of ownership, the Siberian offers loads of fun, even if
it is sometimes at the owner’s expense!!
2.
Buying a
Registered Dog
–
by Shannon McKay
For people buying
a dog there exist a couple of beliefs with regard to registered
dogs, which swing from one extreme to the next.
·
They are inbred
and full of health problems
·
Registration
implies a high level of quality
·
The buyer is fully
protected from unscrupulous breeders
The truth of the
matter is very different. A registered dog is simply that –
registered. There is no guarantee on quality. Conversely a
registered dog is not necessarily inbred or riddled with health
problems. A registered dog simply has a certificate that lists his
ancestors.
Assuming that all
registered dogs are top quality makes as much sense as saying that
all registered cars are top quality.
KUSA members do
agree to abide by a code of ethics, but unfortunately policing this
is unfeasible. By and large it is the individual breeder’s ethics
that will determine whether a puppy has been bred with the highest
of standards or not.
Some breeds have
certain mandatory conditions (health testing etc.), which must be
met prior to a litter being eligible for registration. It would then
seem logical to enforce that every single breed has mandatory
conditions instituted. However this is at the discretion of the
various breed clubs and many clubs find themselves in the
unfortunate position of loosing their members to a rival club if
they implement mandatory conditions. The rival club would also have
to be consulted prior to the implementation of mandatory conditions,
so the majority would rule.
Sadly too many
breeders ignore the benefits of health testing. Expense is often
cited as the problem, but this takes on an ironic twist when the
breeder who does not test will quite happily charge the same price
for a pup as the breeder who does test. Doesn’t seem fair does it?
The only way the
puppy buyer could be assured of a certain level of quality is by the
buyer becoming more demanding.
The buyer MUST investigate the breed and find out health problems in
the breed. The buyer should get a balanced view by speaking to
owners of the specific breed, vets, groomers, trainers etc.
Unfortunately speaking only to breeders is to receive a very biased
opinion and some breeders are less than ethical when it comes to
speaking about their breed (and their own dog’s) shortfalls.
Once the buyer has
this information they should then speak to the breeder about what
they are doing to ensure that puppies bred by them are not afflicted
by these genetic problems. The breeder may speak nonsense, so the
buyer must be prepared to verify what has been said with a vet.
Old wives tales
abound and some are quite ridiculous, but to the novice they seem
plausible. The unethical breeder claims yet another victim – hook,
line and sinker.
I have been
involved in the breed world for 10 years and in that time I have
been horrified by some of what I have seen. I have seen breeders
deliberately breeding dogs afflicted with genetic conditions and
quite happily selling these pups as family pets for top dollar. They
know the pup will probably be blind in two years, or crippled with
elbow dysplasia, but they somehow manage to brush this off.
Disgusting.
If a dog has
outstanding qualities yet may be afflicted with a disorder which
could be non-genetic a
reputable breeder may do a test mating, but then either keep all the
pups or make the situation clear to the puppy buyers. Sometimes
risks can be justified. However non-disclosure to puppy buyers can
never be justified.
Breeding is not an
exact science. It does sometimes happen that even with the highest
of ethics and responsibility a puppy may develop a problem. A
reputable breeder will want to know about this and may even offer a
replacement puppy, depending on the circumstances. A breeder with no
ethics could not care less.
|
Ethical
Breeder |
Ethical
Breeder |
Unethical
Breeder |
|
Winning at
shows |
“Yes,
we’ve done well, but the judge simply assesses the dog on
the day” - There is no measurement of temperament or health
so show results are not really an accurate measure of
companion quality. |
“Look at
all the rosettes we have won. This proves my dog’s quality”
– If the breeder has to rely on other’s opinions to
determine the quality of their dogs then they clearly have
no idea. |
|
Champions
in the pedigree |
“Simply
shows that the dog has some good-looking dogs in his
pedigree” – Sometimes even a sterling pedigree can produce
an average specimen. |
“Look at
all the Champions – the puppy has to be exceptional with
that behind him” – Not necessarily. |
|
Health
screening |
“We screen
all breeding animals” – This is the only way to minimise
problems creeping in. |
“We’ve
never had a problem, so we don’t need to test” – This is a
classic statement. What this means is that they have refused
to acknowledge any problems or they don’t know about them. |
|
Parents |
“The
mother is here for you to meet and I can arrange for you to
meet the father” – There should never be any problems about
seeing either parent. |
“The
mother doesn’t like people seeing her 6 week puppies and the
father is staying with a friend” – If you can’t meet the
parents this should set of warning bells. Do bear in mind
though that the mother of pups may behave protectively
toward her puppies (especially when under the age of three
weeks) and sometimes the stud dog may be some distance away. |
|
Puppy
Visits |
“You are
welcome to visit the puppies after the age of three week” –
Some breeders will allow visitors from the first day, but
they would be within their rights to only allow visitors
once the pups are a little older. |
“You can’t
see the puppies because of XYZ. You’ll see your pup when I
drop it off for you” – Being able to view the environment in
which the pup has been raised is crucial. Don’t expect any
less. |
If a substandard
breeder has a willing market due to ignorance, he will continue to
breed to substandard levels and will coin it by riding on the
coattails of the ethical breeders. The only people with the ability
to change this situation are the puppy buyers.
There are many
good breeders out there, however they cannot be determined purely
on the basis of whether their pups are registered or not.
Registration is a start, but it is hardly an all-encompassing
guarantee of quality and good breeding ethics.
Ultimately it is
the buyer that will enforce high breeding ethics. Buyers must do
their homework in a clinical manner and thus protect themselves from
unethical breeders.
3. Taking Care of your Pet’s Teeth
by Candice Lamb (Kyron
Laboratories (Pty) Ltd)
We care for our
own teeth – why not for our pet’s teeth? Even the best of diets
cannot keep pet’s teeth clean enough to prevent plaque
accumulating.
The Importance of Oral Hygiene
Veterinary
researchers have proved beyond doubt that, with inadequate oral
hygiene, pets develop bad breath, plaque, then tartar (first signs:
orange to brown coating on the teeth), followed by gum disease. Once
this starts, infections easily enter the body and the animal can
suffer from heart, liver, kidney and even eye problems. Bad breath
is the least of its problems, but probably the one which you notice
most!
What is Plaque?
Plaque is a
colourless, sticky mixture which forms naturally and continuously on
the teeth and gums. As it builds up it can lead to mouth odour and
infection. Only regular and thorough cleaning of the tooth surface
will prevent the plaque turning into tartar.
What is Tartar?
Tartar is a hard
deposit found on neglected teeth and contributes to dental disease
by forming a rough surface that harbours plaque. Unlike plaque, it
is difficult to remove from the surface of the tooth and requires
professional treatment by a veterinarian.
Warning Signs of Bad Oral Health
·
Persistent bad
breath;
·
Drooling;
·
Tartar covering
part or all of tooth;
·
Sensitivity around
the mouth;
·
Bleeding, inflamed
or receded gums;
·
Loose or missing
teeth.
4 Ways to Good Oral Health
1.
Contact a
veterinarian to make an appointment for a thorough oral
examination. Based on what he or she sees during the examination,
it may be necessary to clean the pet’s teeth above and perhaps below
the gum-line. The money paid for this procedure now will be
well-spent as complications arising from poor oral health are far
more costly in the long-run.
2.
Once the dog or
cat has been given a clean bill of oral health it’s best to keep it
that way. Brushing regularly with a product like PET DENT®
Toothpaste, a palatable paste especially formulated for pets, will
aid in the removal of plaque and keep the breath fresh! If, for one
reason or another, it is not possible to brush the teeth, then PET
DENT® Oral Gel should be applied to teeth & gums (this is
especially useful for cats!). This gel is very palatable and —
although it will not remove plaque — will slow down its
accumulation, control bad breath, and prolong the time between
dental visits to the veterinarian.
3.
Rawhide chews can
be useful as an aid in slowing down accumulation of plaque.
4.
Schedule an oral
check-up with the veterinarian at least once a year — to ensure that
the pet’s teeth are kept in tip-top shape and health-related
problems stemming from poor oral hygiene are avoided.
Kyron Laboratories
manufactures and sells a range of pet oral hygiene products.
Veterinarians all stock PET DENT® Oral Gel, PET DENT®
Toothpaste, the PET DENT® Long-handled Toothbrush and the
Kyron Finger-brush.
4. “Cat Think”
– by Carole O’Leary -
(Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC
of SA ™)
Cats are a
creature of great self interest, driven by self survival & comforts.
They make their own decisions about the suitability of their
environment and these choices are often confusing to loving owners.
“I want my cats to like each other.” Cats decide not you!
There are a few
things we can do to nudge them towards our wishes, but finally the
cat has the last word.
Over time I have
observed a few pointers that may assist pet owners in the choice of
cats for a multi cat home. Cats are capable of managing as ‘loaners’
where as dog needs his pack, thus they co-habit in a colony but
maintain independence & manage their personal critical distance
according to their environment, life experiences & genetic makeup.
Domestic cats are basically kittens at heart.
Getting 2 kittens
at the same time is the best plan. They bond well. (And give hours
of entertainment!) This early contact results in a close critical
distance. The domestic breeds bond well but the moggies may
increase the distance with age but will still co-habit. Cats with a
strong feral background could, when adult, have large critical
distance. If so they may decide to live far apart on the same
territory. This is where the human factor arises “we want them to
live together” the cats don’t! So one lives in the shed & one
sleeps on your bed. We feel bad.
Looking at
bringing in a new cat to existing cat/cats is a different ball game.
A generalisation can be made with domestic breeds (fancy cats) that
they are easier to get to accept each other especially if a kitten
is involved, unless they have acquired a fighting habit (i.e. A
learned behaviour). To a lesser degree moggies of gentle
temperament can adapt but ferals seldom do.
The same can be
said with the introduction of adults BUT this may take years, during
which your home may smell disgusting & look like a torn up hell!
Mean time the cats are totally stressed. Of course there are
exceptions to the rule but this is unusual. Neutering animals is a
must for success.
So if we wish to
introduce another cat it is best to start off with the most
favourable options. Why make the cats’ life & yours more difficult
that it has to be? Cats are obsessed about their critical distance
& will start off with an extensive area which can lessen as
confidence is gained. By not respecting this feline characteristic
we humans can cause irreversible problems. This distance is
measured by sight (body language, marking etc.), sent (pheromones)
noise (& vocalisation) resource & comfort zones. If success is to
be achieved one must “hasten slowly!”
If cats hate each
other on sight, unless separate territory is arranged, they will
live at the Vet! In harmonious multi-cat households the
introduction of an additional cat may cause permeate disruption
whereas a feral colony may accept on their terms. All this relates
to the home turf being big enough for comfort in critical distances,
which includes the personal pathways. A suburban home is just not
big enough for cats with differences. Therefore, as humans, we must
insure compatibility amongst our pet cats & not expect our wishes to
reign. The Cat is King.
Management plans
that will help are mostly related to scent. As pheromones (the C.V.
of life) play a major role. Cross scenting of environment is
essential before visual contacts. Many aids, including artificial
pheromones can assist. Alternating rooms, switching bedding,
swapping food bowls. Our bodies & clothing act as good carriers.
Ignore fluffed-up reactions & reward calm responses. Next
introduce fleeting visual sightings’ well outside critical
distances. A gradual reduction of distances can be decreased when
acceptable reactions increase. Relationships with owner that
satisfy play & activity help lessen stress, but remember to finish
fun with calm loving. In the case of cats that are spooky don’t
force anything the cat is not ready to accept. Remember all
experiences that owners may use must be associated with a
pleasurable experience as good actions will be repeated. Negative
associations’ create confusion which causes stress which will put
the processes into reverse! Confusion can cause aggression which
will redirect to objects (destruction etc.) or worse against the cat
you are trying to settle.
With a bit of
thought all manner of familiarisation can be invented by the owner
provided they understand & accept the manner in which cats handle
their world.
5. Introducing a new puppy into a multi-dog household – Part Two
by
Louise Thompson (Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC
of SA ™)
On
acquiring a new puppy - once you have him home, do not immediately
thrust him into the stressful experience of meeting your own dogs –
or indeed even your human family at one time. Puppies need lots of
peace and quiet and time, in order to be able to adjust to new
surroundings and the excitement of a new environment, new people,
and other pets.
Start
by introducing your human family to the new pup, one at a time, and
make sure any noisy, or naughty children, are well supervised. Do
not let young children play, pick up, or tease a young puppy –
EVER!
Any
bad experience at this tender age can have permanent, lasting
results. Thus, the basic rule is that no child is ever left
unsupervised, with any dog at any time!
The
same “calm – unhurried” logic applies when introducing a new pup to
the rest of the existing pack.
You
should use the “gradual accustomisation” method. Baby steps – adding
only one small new person / animal / situation at a time – time and
patience is the key here!
A
good idea, which also aids in ensuring your puppies safety, is to
crate train your new puppy, and introduce him (safe and snug in his
crate) to the other dogs one at a time.
At no
time in the beginning stages of this developing / budding
relationship, should your puppy be left unsupervised with any of the
adult, existing dogs. Another idea is to have a trailing line on the
older dog that you are introducing, so that you can calmly intervene
and redirect the adult dog, (with as little fuss as possible), if
things start to get out of hand, or indeed, if you see things
beginning to go wrong.
If
the older (existing dog) acts negatively – do not scold him or
punish him in any way. Calmly (without saying a word or giving
commands) pick up the end of his trailing house line and pop him
outside (alone) for a few minutes of doggie reflection. After a few
minutes “doggie time out”, he is permitted back inside the room
again for a second (third, fourth, fifth, sixth – tenth chance).
Give him a few minutes to settle and then if he growls or looks
threateningly at the puppy – then simply repeat the “doggie time
out” experience.
You
will need to find ways to get the existing dog/s to associate the
puppy with some wonderful, positive experience. The second that the
older dog looks relaxed and his body language is positive (nice
windmill wagging tail – soft facial muscles, and relaxed body
language), reward him with lots of verbal praise and a high value
treat.
At
this stage, YOU SHOULD NOT TAKE
ANY NOTICE OF THE PUPPY – WHO NEEDS TO FEEL IGNORED (as this
is the natural order of a pack – last one in gets the least
privileges and/or attention). If you give the puppy too
much attention (in some cases even to the degree of eye contact),
the older dog will have to defend his status, and this could
negatively affect their future relationship. In fact, in general,
whilst in the presence of any
of the existing dogs, the puppy should be ignored. You
can provide him with extra attention “one-on-one”, when the other
dogs are not present.
The
second the older dog looks relaxed or less stressed – praise
verbally and pop him a high value treat. These high value treats
should be reserved for ONLY
when he is in the puppy’s presence or when interacting with the
puppy. Initially, have the older dog on leash for control and
discipline. Then you can progress to having the older dog free -
(but on a longer house-line for safety), and start to facilitate
“controlled” introductions. Once the pup and one existing dog are
coping (with the pup still safely in his crate) then you may
introduce the second of your multi dog household, and repeat the
same logic used as before. This should initially be “one-on-one” dog
introductions. It is too soon to expose the puppy to the whole pack.
Don’t
forget to ensure that each and every time the existing dog comes in
contact with the puppy – something wonderful has to happen. A meal –
a special game a special training session – whatever turns the older
dog on.
The
next step is to gradually introduce a second dog, and then the third
and so on and so forth. Start with introducing the highest-ranking
dog first and then if possible introduce the rest of the group in
rank or pecking order. Once they are all together – with puppy still
safe in his crate you are ready for the next step.
The
next step is to become brave enough to let them interact together
FREE. This sometimes is
very stressful for owners – who if they show their fears, could make
maters worse!
Again, a good idea is to introduce the puppy to one member of the
pack at a time. If the owners have
ANY CONCERNS regarding
the puppy’s safety. The existing older pack members should be
gradually accustomised to wearing a plastic full cage muzzle.
This
takes about five to ten days, and is achieved through the use of
treats and other positive associations.The
following accustomisation programme is then to be undertaken in
regards to getting them used to the muzzles.
THE HAPPY MUZZLE
A plastic cage
muzzle is the most suitable one to use. It should fit snug around
the dog’s neck and loose enough around the face to facilitate
panting. Many dogs learn to drink water and even eat treats whilst
wearing a cage muzzle. The neck strap should be tied or attached to
the dog’s collar to ensure that he is not able to wriggle or buck
out of the muzzle.
Once you have
obtained a suitable full muzzle which fits each dog well, then you
should begin to very gradually accustomise the dogs to wearing their
muzzle. To avoid any increase in stress levels and to teach the dogs
that wearing the muzzle is a pleasant experience do not just put it
on and hope for the best!
To get the dog
used to wearing the happy muzzle is a
GRADUAL desensitising
process, as follows:-
RULES AND
METHOD
·
Be very calm and
matter of fact about the whole thing – we do not want the dog to
think it is a big deal!
·
Initially let the
dog sniff the muzzle, while giving it a tit bit, several times a
day.
·
Once the dog is
calm, and not showing any signs of fear of the muzzle, it can then
be CASUALLY slipped
onto the head. DO NOT FASTEN IT
YET! Just slip it on and then straight off – then reward
with the tit-bit. Again, repeat several times a day – until the dog
is calm, confident and comfortable with the procedure.
·
Once the dog is
coping with it, being put/slipped on the head you will begin to see
the dog’s attitude of positive association towards the muzzle, with
the reward.
·
This from the
dog’s point of view should be a pleasant rewarding experience. We do
not want to make the dog afraid of the muzzle, or try to force it
on, as this would raise the stress and anxiety levels of the dog,
and again, we would be looking at possible other behavioural
problems developing from force. Especially if the dog/s in question
has had no previous training or mental/physical stimulation.
·
The next step is
to slip it on, over the head, and fasten the catch just for a couple
of seconds – remove and then and give the dog a treat. In the
beginning, remember to take it off immediately and praise/reward –
repeat this several times a day, for the first couple of days.
·
After that, work
up to keeping it on for a second or two. Then remove and reward.
·
This is NEVER to
be used or associated by the dog with punishment; the dog is to
think that having the muzzle put on is a huge treat!
·
Gradually over a
period of time start to leave it on a bit longer and longer. Put it
on and then take it off before rewarding times, such as feed times,
play time, and before walks.
·
Once the dog is
coping and happy with wearing the muzzle for a slightly longer
period then ….
·
You can pop is on
just before taking him for a walk (if there are two dogs – please
walk them separately during this period)
·
Only leave the
muzzle on the dog for extended periods of time, (and then only under
your SUPERVISION) once
the dog is happy and confident, showing you that he associates
wearing it with praise and reward.
·
You will soon see
that the dog will show you by his positive response when he sees the
muzzle, that he thinks it is a wonderful thing! He should be pleased
and excited to see it and have it fitted on!
Voila! You now
have a muzzle happy dog. Safe to be around both with other animals
and people, and you have not stressed him out or affected your
relationship with him in any negative way at all! NOTE: If at any
time during this desensitisation period, the dog panics or
regresses, revert back one stage in the programme, until you reach a
level where the dog is coping, and then progress forward, from that
stage of the desensitisation programme.
When the actual
free introduction is performed – the muzzle should be tied/secured
to the collar at the back of the dog’s neck so that the dog can not
slip it off over its head.
As soon as the
dogs are accustomised to wearing their muzzles – a controlled
introduction on neutral ground should be performed. It is important
that the area where the introduction occurs is neutral, as this will
prevent any of the higher-ranking dogs from needing to defend
territory or establish further status. Ideally a fenced off area
would be a great advantage.
Don’t forget to
ignore the younger pup and give the older pack members lots and lots
of attention and wonderful high value treats if they are interacting
well.
The area that is
used for the introduction should not be too large – as the pup might
feel threatened, but it should be large enough for the puppy and the
dog to be able to keep out of each other’s ways if they so desire.
As with the
initial crate controlled introduction – you should start with the
alpha dog. Once coping with the alpha then slowly introduce the
others. Once the entire group have been introduced individually,
then the next step is to start introducing more than one at a time.
This needs to be done gradually, until you achieve harmony with the
entire group. As before I also suggest that you have the adult dogs
on a trailing line, so that you are able to intervene with minimum
fuss if things look like they need to be de-fused.
Once a positive
outcome is achieved on neutral ground you should then begin to
perform the same in your own garden and then indoors during quiet
times such as when watching television etc. Gradually – over a
period of time you will begin to put the dogs in slightly more
stressful situations together (still
muzzled)
and see how they cope.
If at any time
they regress – you should return to the stage of the programme where
they were coping. Repeat until you feel that they are more stable
and then move onto the next stage.
Don’t forget that
not all dogs accept new puppies. There are many things that have to
be taken into account. The amount of social interactions the
existing dogs have been exposed to: The level of their natural
tolerance: Early experiences: Levels of exposure to different dogs
and animals: Life skills learnt: And – most of all – breed genetics
– some breed just don’t get on with others!
6. About the Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa.
The Animal Behaviour Consultants™© of Southern Africa aims to
promote well-being and harmony between pet and owner.
The ABC aims to continue on-going studies and education in
human/animal relationships and to promote and regulate the
profession of animal behaviour consultants™©.
History of the ABC
The ABC was founded in February 1994 out of the need to give
southern African behaviourists a professional governing body.
Membership is open to the public, as well as animal behaviour
consultants™©. Owners of companion animals can consult ABC
accredited practitioners with confidence, as they adhere to a code
of ethics.
Accredited Consultants
All of our accredited members undergo a rigorous application
procedure prior to receiving their species specific accreditation.
The accreditation criteria are stringent and extensive, thereby
ensuring the highest levels of knowledge, professionalism and
integrity. View a complete listing of all accredited consultants on
our website at
www.animal-behaviour.org.za
Code of Ethics
ABC accredited animal behaviour consultants™© resolve at all times
to:
Provide a professional and, confidential service to the owners of
companion animals.
Analyse the behaviour problem thoroughly.
Treat
the animal in liaison with the referring veterinarian.
Offer
appropriate advice and therapy for the animal and owner.
Treat
the animal and owner with understanding and compassion.
Deal
honestly, and fairly, with the public.
Avoid
any action that would discredit the ABC.
Liaise with all aspects of the animal industry and promote awareness
of animal behaviour.
Take
every opportunity to participate in continuing education.
Keep
abreast of all new developments in the science of Ethology.
7.
Membership
Membership of the
ABC is open to all. There are three categories of membership:-
-
Normal
Membership
– R75 per year with a R75 once off joining fee.
-
Accredited
Membership
– On application. Please contact our Accreditation Secretary
-
Group
Membership
– Animal organisations are invited to join the ABC on a group
membership basis.
Why should I become a member?
If you join as a
normal member, you will have access to the bimonthly newsletters
aimed at professionals, taking your knowledge of your pet even
further, while still, if you wish, receive this newsletter. You will
receive invitations to seminars and workshops and qualify for
reduced rates at all ABC workshops. In addition you will be eligible
to take part in the competitions featuring in the newsletter.
Should
you wish to become a member please contact Belinda Thomas -
info@mckaynine.co.za
